Kawagoe - 川越

Kawagoe's Warehouse District (蔵造りの町並み, Kurazukuri no Machinami) provides a nostalgic scene from the Edo Period (1603-1867). The word "kura" means "warehouse" in Japanese, and Kurazukuri are clay-walled warehouse-styled buildings that are constructed with an Edo architectural flavor.

In the old days, Kawagoe was an important commercial town supplying resources to Edo (present day Tokyo). Thanks to the thriving trade, many merchants grew wealthy enough to build not only their warehouses but also their stores in the Kurazukuri style, more so than it was usual in other towns. Some of the buildings managed to survive to this day. Mostly housing shops and restaurants, they can be found along the main Kurazukuri Street which stretches a few hundred meters long. Heavy regular car traffic along the street, however, takes away a lot of the historic atmosphere and limits pedestrians to narrow sidewalks. 

In the past, Japanese cities consisted almost exclusively of wooden buildings, which made them vulnerable to fires. Kurazukuri construction was used both to make a structure fireproof and to secure it against intruders. They were very expensive to build, as their construction involved making thick walls consisting of several layers. Thanks to the prosperous trade with Edo, the merchants of Kawagoe flourished, and many showed their wealth by building as good-looking a structure as they could afford.

Candy Alley (菓子屋横丁, Kashiya Yokochō) is a little shopping street adjacent to the Warehouse District. It is lined by stores selling traditional Japanese sweets and cakes, which gave the alley its name. Among the treats sold are various candies, rice crackers, karinto (sugar coated, deep fried cookies), ice cream, and cakes made of red bean paste and sweet potatoes. Also available are small toys and accessories which make nice souvenirs to take home.

Immediately following the Great Earthquake of 1923, Tokyo experienced a great shortfall in supply of Japanese sweets; orders made to the candy stores in Kashiya Yokocho thereby surged. At one point in the early Showa Period, more than 70 such stores existed. These days there remain just over 20, providing various delights for their customers. The Candy Alley is a wonderful place for trying traditional Japanese sweets, while experiencing a nostalgic atmosphere from past decades.

Stepping away from the streets of the visage of Edo/Meiji and walking on the granite stone pathways—that is the world of "Taisho Romance". The retro atmosphere with Machiyazukuri and western style signs joining the eves, it is like you have traveled back to the Taisho period. For a moment, you will forget the hustle and bustle of city life. There are no power cables in the sky and it is very open. It is an exciting, half-forgotten mysterious sensation which makes you feel somehow nostalgic. We are waiting for you, not just with the antiquity of goodwill, but to do real business which gives value to the interaction of people. Inside, there are merchant houses which date all the way back to the Edo Period as well as many new, unique shops.

Kawagoe's Kitain (喜多院) is the head temple of the Tendai Sect in the Kanto Region. Among its halls are the only remaining palace buildings of the former Edo Castle. Originally part of a three-temple complex built in 830, Kitain flourished and became the main temple at the turn of the 17th century under the leadership of Tenkai, an extraordinary personality who developed trusted friendships with the first three shogun of the Edo Period.

In 1638, a fire destroyed most of Kitain. To help rebuilding it, the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, ordered several palace buildings to be moved from Edo Castle to Kawagoe. These are today the only surviving buildings of Edo Castle because of the damage Tokyo suffered during the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and World War II. One of the rooms, decorated with a floral ceiling and a set of a general's armor, is believed to be where Iemitsu was born.

The tall torii gate is 15 meters high and is found on the approach. The grounds of the Shinto Shrine are filled with numerous trees over 500 years old and the sacred keyaki tree rustles in the wind. The history of Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine dates back to the 6th century when it separated from Omiya Hikawa Shrine. Later, Ota Dokan, who constructed Kawagoe Castle, became familiar as "Hikawa-sama (Mr. Hikawa)". The sacred shrine pavillion with its elaborate Edo carvings was constructed by Matsudaira Naritsune, a castle lord, as a donation. In the center of the bright vermillon red torii gate is a framed symbol with writings from Katsu Kaishu.

In 1956, the Main Shrine and other historical buildings that pass on Edo culture were registered as designated cultural properties of Saitama Prefecture. Known for enshrining the god of married couples, it is believed to be the "God of Marriage" and many couples can be seen holding weddings every year. If you are lucky, you may be able to see a bride wearing a shiromuku, a pure white kimono. Throughout the year there are many types of events. In February, there are prayers for "traffic safety / achievements in studies" and "purification of student's leather backpacks". In August, there is the Takigi Noh (Noh dance performed under the light of a bonfire) and in mid October, the famous Kawagoe Festival. Within the shrine grounds full of greenery, not only will you see visitors coming to pray, but also locals who come to relax and enjoy the four seasons.